Style of Our Training Regimen

As a team, we rotate between three focus areas for our workouts: strength, power, and power endurance. Each “phase” lasts two weeks to promote steady advancement in three crucial aspects of climbing. Include the core workout (bottom of page) in each phase, and make sure to orient your workout towards the phase you are in.

The Phases & What They Mean

  • Strength: Movements should be slow and controlled, while still being very hard. Foot cuts should not happen, nor should lots of swinging or jumping.
  • Power: Movements should be explosive and dynamic!!! Aka lots of dynos, jumps and deadpoints.
  • Power Endurance: Being able to do powerful moves for an extended period of time.

Strength Phase

climbing

  • Lock-Offs: Find a boulder you can climb comfortably that is strength oriented. While climbing it, hover your hand over the next hold for 3 full seconds. This will help improve your body positioning.
  • Limit Bouldering: Find 3-4 strength oriented moves in a row that you know will be at your limit. Try to climb them at 100% of your maximum strength. Give yourself full rest between attempts. Make sure you’re trying each move 3-4 times, even if you fall before the move.
  • Add-On: Find a person/people to climb with! To start, one person creates 2 moves. Next, the second person in the group does those two moves (hands & feet) and then “adds on” two more. Keep adding on moves to the previous moves made, and keep them strength oriented!!!

TRAINING

  • Weighted Pull-Ups
    • Go until fail.
  • Bench Press
    • 64246: 6 easy, 4 medium, 2 hardest you got, 4 medium, 6 easy
  • Burnout Push-Ups
    • 1-2 push-ups as slow as possible
    • Go until fail.
  • Pistol Squats
    • 1 legged squats, if these are too hard, assist with a pole
  • Wrist Curls & Reverse Wrist Curls
    • 2 sets of: 10 reps of each hand
  • Weighted Planks
    • 2 sets of: 30 sec on, 10 off, 30 on
  • Hollow Body
    • Get into iron cross position (lying down with ONLY your tail bone on the ground). Place a light weight (start with 2.5 lbs) on your feet and hold a light weight in your hands behind your head with your arms extended. Keep your back as flat to the ground as possible. If it begins to arch, either lessen the amount of weight in your hands/on your feet, or make more of a V shape with your body.
    • 5 sets of: 7 sec on, 4 off, 7 on
  • Front Lever Pulls
    • Find a pull up bar. At the same time, pull up so your arms are slightly bent and your body is as parallel to the ground as possible.
  • Dead-lifts: DO NOT DO THESE UNLESS YOU ARE ALREADY TRAINED IN DOING THEM OR HAVE BEEN TRAINED BY US.

Power Phase

climbing

  • Moonboard: Find a boulder challenging for yourself, and project it!!!
  • Lock-Offs: Find a boulder you can climb comfortably that is power oriented. While climbing it, hover your hand over the next hold for 3 full seconds. This will help improve your body positioning.
  • Limit Bouldering: Find 3-4 power oriented moves in a row that you know will be at your limit. Try to climb them at 100% of your maximum power. Give yourself full rest between attempts. Make sure you’re trying EACH move 3-4 times, even if you fall before the move.
  • Add-On: Find a person/people to climb with! To start, one person creates 2 moves. Next, the second person in the group does those two moves (hands & feet) and then “adds on” two more. Keep adding on moves to the previous moves made, and keep them power oriented!!!

TRAINING – aka sweat city

  • Dynamic Pull-Ups & Push-Ups
    • 5 sets of: Pull-up 5 times to the bar FAST and HARD. Next, immediately move into 5 dynamic push-ups: aka push away from the ground as FAST and as HARD as possible.
    • ON THE WALL: Find good hand/foot holds and pull up 5 times as far and as fast as possible. This will look like you’re winding up to dyno or jump. If this becomes too easy, put a backpack on that is heavy. Immediately move into 5 dynamic push-ups. 5 sets.
  • Jumps
    • Jump from one end of the room to the other explosively. Each time you get to the wall, switch the way you are jumping (forward, to the right, to the left). Make sure you jump from both of your feet; do not lead with one by putting it in front of the other before you jump. Basically imagine you’re a kangaroo.
  • One Arm Snatches
    • 2 sets of 10 reps: Place a dumbbell on the ground in front of you horizontally. Bend your knees, keep your back straight, grab the dumbbell, and explosively lift the weight above head. Make sure you do not swing the dumbbell in front of you and instead keep it in the same place while it is moving upwards. Slowly place the dumbbell back on the ground.
  • PVC Pipe Craziness (only Center45)
    • Go to the workout area by the hanging rings. Place the 2 u-shaped PVC pipes vertically under you where you would put your hands for a push-up. Next, place your feet in the hanging rings so you are in a plank position.
    • 1 minute of rotating between: mountain climbers, both knees in & to the right/left, left knee to right elbow, right knee to left elbow, right knee to right elbow, left knee to left elbow.
  • Ball Slams (only at Center45)
    • Find a partner and go outside by the garage door. Slam the medicine ball on the ground as hard and fast as you can for one minute with your partner. Switch partners after each ball slam.

Power Endurance Phase

  • 4 by 4’s: Find 4 boulders that you have climbed before at these levels: one easy-medium, one medium-hard, one easy-hard, and one hard. Do every boulder 4 times each.
  • V Points: You have 1-1½ hours to gain as many V points as possible. V1=1 point, V2=2 points, etc. Do not repeat the same boulder unless you have climbed every other boulder in that grade (“I’ve climbed all the 5’s, so now I can try the easy one again and get 5 points”). Record your score so you can try to beat it in the future!
  • Laps: Find a place where you can climb on some ropes. Climb a route that will be EASY for you (5.6-5.8 preferably). Climb up AND down as many times as you can WITHOUT stopping. Push yourself!!!
  • Limit Bouldering: Find 3-4 power endurance oriented moves in a row that you know will be at your limit. Try to climb them at 100% of your maximum power endurance. Give yourself full rest between attempts. Make sure you’re trying EACH move 3-4 times, even if you fall before the move.
  • Add-On: Find a person/people to climb with! To start, one person creates 2 moves. Next, the second person in the group does those two moves (hands & feet) and then “adds on” two more. Keep adding on moves to the previous moves made, and keep them power endurance oriented!!!

Core – SEND IT

  • Strength Phase: go SLOW for each workout
  • Power & Power Endurance: go FAST for each workout

SET 1

  • 1 min recovery
  • 30 sec straight leg
  • 30 sec straight on you (up/wide/down/etc)
  • 50 crunches
  • 50 Russian twists
  • 1 min recovery
  • 30 sec straight leg recovery
  • 30 sec straight on you (up/wide/down/etc)
  • 1 min regular plank
  • 30 sec mountain climbers
  • 5 sec right knee in (hold)
  • 5 sec left knee in (hold)
  • 5 sec right knee to right arm (hold)
  • 5 sec left knee to left arm (hold)
  • 5 sec right knee to left arm (hold)
  • 5 sec left knee to right arm (hold)

set 2

  • 40 sec bicycle
  • 20 sec 6 inches
  • 40 sec penguins
  • 20 sec 6 inches
  • 40 sec up 4s
  • 20 sec 6 inches
  • 40 sec rowboats
  • 20 sec 6 inches
  • 30 sec straight leg recovery
  • 30 sec iron cross

set 3

  • 40 sec one leg v sit
  • 20 sec hold at quarter (45°… not the coin)
  • 40 sec flutter kicks
  • 20 sec quarter
  • 40 sec up 4s
  • 20 sec quarter
  • 40 sec rowboat
  • 20 sec quarter
  • 30 sec FAST mountain climber
  • 30 sec iron cross

SET 4

  • 1 min push-ups
  • burn out push-up
    • do 1 push-up in 1 minute. (ideally your arms should be at 90° at the half way mark)
  • 1 min tricep push-ups
  • 30 sec of L hand forward push-ups
  • 30 sec of R hand forward push-ups
  • 30 sec of pull-ups
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